Removal and Replacement Instructions
(steps 11-20 of 40)
- Lift the fan / clutch assembly and the fan shroud out of the vehicle as a unit. You'll need to move the A/C line out of your way and you'll want to be careful not to dent/damage any the radiator fins. This is a cumbersome process so take your time and try to lift these parts out slowly.
- Remove the serpentine belt using a 15mm socket and a 1/2" drive socket wrench. The belt tensioner pully is just below the idler pully and down and to the right of the alternator (see picture below). Using the 15mm socket, rotate the pully so that the belt becomes loose and can be removed.
OPTIONAL: Spray some carb cleaner into the (2) throttle body (TB) openings (see picture above). On our test vehicle, the throttle would sometimes stick. Spraying some carb cleaner into the throttle body cleaned
the opening and the throttle plates (just inside the TB) resolved the problem.
- Remove the water pump pulley (simply slides off)
- Remove the (2) heater hoses connected to the water pump. One is a short "elbow" and the other is a longer hose/line that is attached by a clamp by one of the altrnator mounting bolts (see picture below). Remove the upper alternator mounting bolt (13mm) so that you can slide the heater hose off of the water pump. This is a good time to replace the heater hoses if they look worn or "bulging". You should DEFINITLEY replace the small, elbow-shaped hose at is cheap and hard to get to.
- There water pump is secured to the engine with (7) bolts / studs. One of them is behind the A/C-Power Steering Pump mounting bracket and we can't get to it just yet. Remove the (6) accessible bolts / studs (16mm) noting that some are longer than others. Note the positions of the longer bolts (varies by application).
- Remove (3) bolts (14mm) that secure the A/C-Power Steering Pump mounting bracket (see picture above). Slide the bracket off of the alignment pin/stud and set aside.
- Remove the 7th water pump bolt/stud (the one that was behind the bracket we just removed). Note that this bolt/stud serves as an alignment pin for the A/C-PS bracket. Be sure and put it back in the same place during re-assembly.
- Remove the water pump from the engine. The gaskets may be stuck to the engine pretty good but it should come out without too much effort.
- Clean the gasket mating surfaces THOROUGHLY. Did we say THOROUGHLY? We meant to say THOROUGHLY. It is very important to clean the off all the old gasket material from the front of the engine so that the new water pump makes a good seal. There's nothing more depressing than getting it all put back together only to find that your pump leaks because you didn't clean the gasket surfaces thoroughly. Use a stiff putty-knife type scraper or a razor scraper. Both are cheap and readily available at your local auto parts store.
- The water pump is a 2-gasket design with a gasket between the pump and the backing plate and another gasket that goes between the backing plate and the engine (see picture below). It is important to make sure both of these gaskets form a good seal when installing a new pump. Apply gasket dressing/sealant on the pump side of the pump-to-plate gasket and place the gasket onto the water pump housing. Apply gasket dressing/sealant to the other side of this same gasket and place the backing plate onto the pump (securing it with the (2) bolts that came with the new pump). Apply gasket dressing/sealant to the pump side of the remaining gasket and place it on the pump. Use of a Hi-Tack ("extra sticky") gasket sealant makes this process (and the process of re-installing the pump on the engine - next step) much easier.